I was standing on a warm sand with the sun that heated my skin just enough to calm my senses. The waves seemed higher today. It created a fog of thick salty air. They were tossed at the shore like a drunk throwing an empty bottle. It made a loud crash that could be heard half a mile away. My shoulder ached from my surfboard. It was trying to pull my shoulder off. A young man dashed by, running at full speed towards an endless pool of salt water. As he gets closer a wall of water rises to fight against him. Only for him to dive head first, not into his new found opponent, but over top of it. He cleared the enemy by just an inch or two. Just enough for him to slide the firm finned fiberglass under his chest. He disappears from view as if he had been swallowed by great endless sea. He settled his position and sat up. It didn’t even seem like he noticed me. Another mound of water started to rise just past him and he swam quickly. He seemed so eager to catch the wave. His once enemy now flowed with him. He stood up and danced on the wave. As if mocking the wave, but the wave didn’t mind and just continued along as if he never existed. Still on the beach, I felt his rush, wiggling my toes in the sand. I took a deep breath and charged.
Surfing in Virginia Beach is something unreal. The crave, the need, and the addiction, are all a part of it. Beginning is the hardest but as soon a person stands up on the board for the first time. It feels as if something magical as taken a hold of them. The waves become addicting and fuel our need to get off work or wake up early just to catch another ride. Riding a board has its own magnificence but, there is a beauty of sitting on your board watching the sun come up over the water. The sky fills with reds, blues, and purples. It is the most majestic and beautiful view.